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Very very poor data speeds since July when I joined. The seller rep lied to me.

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jthill3
New Poster

Very very poor data speeds since July when I joined. The seller rep lied to me.

Case ID  is 102292232.

I signed up with HughesNet in July 2017 for internet service in my home in the
country. We had heard bad things about them but since they are the only provider
in this area, we signed up with them anyway.

The plan I am on is the most
expensive ($150/month including taxes and fees) and is sold as a 70GB data plan. That actually is 20 GB of Anytime data and 50GB Bonus data between the hours of 2:00am and 8:00am.

This was my fault for not reading the fine print but how in the world would I use the Bonus data? I am 62 years old and my wife works so it is extremely rare if either of us are awake during those hours.

My actual complaint is that the plan I am on offers 15MBPS download data speed but we rarely see that speed (and this is since July 2017 when we joined Hughesnet). The system is down quite a bit and when it is up it is as slow as "Molasses in Christmas" slow.

! I have measured if as low as 1.12 MBPS download speed and less than 1 MBPS upload speed. It is consistently below 5 MBPS download speed since I joined Hughsnet.

The seller of this plan told us my wife would be able to work from home with no problem. I had explained that she does much Video Conferencing and sends/receive large files. He assured me there would be no problem.

I explained to the seller that I am disabled and a very heavy Internet user (streaming movies/sports, etc). He assured me there would be no problem.

None of the above two items are true. The data rate is so slow and so unreliable that my wife cannot work from home as told. So she has to drive 1.5 hours into Atlanta in the mornings to get to work. One of the reasons we moved here was that we were sure we would be having a good internet service.

 The data plan of 20GB Anytime data is eaten up with a few movies and football games but even then the stream staggers and stops due to the poor data speeds.

I have tried to use their Customer Support but (with no disrespect meant) I can not understand the Help Rep on the phone as their English is so broken and their accents are so thick. Having said that, one lady did try to help and we did talk on the phone on two consecutive days. Then no more calls. No more help.

I tried emailing to the Support Center but their email system was down. On Hughsnet Facebook page, they gave me a link and told me to register my issues there. I tried that and it was also down. (It was down the first time I tried but now I got in.)

Hughesnet has given me some credit ($20/month credit so I could buy more Anytime data Tokens and a month credit on my bill. But this system is so unreliable these credits do not fix any problems. So, in closing, besides the issues mentioned describing the poor service, I feel lied to and sold down the river by Hughsnet.

 I would never recommend this service to anyone for any reason.
127 REPLIES 127
GabeU
Distinguished Professor IV

jthill3,

I didn't ask you the questions I did for the heck of it.  I asked you those questions because I/we need to know what you use with the service in order to be able to help you with cutting down on the data usage.  Computers and other devices can use data that you don't know they are using, but until we are aware of what devices you use, it makes it difficult in helping you to cut down on that usage.  

I'll ask again...Mac or PC?  If PC, what version of Windows?  What other devices, if any, do you use with Hughesnet?  Do you have a DirecTV receiver connected to the service?  

For my part, I am only trying to help you with your data usage issues, not your speed issues. 
jthill3
New Poster

The installer did not hard wire any locations in my house - he set the whole house up as WiFi.

My wife has a laptop running Windows 10 and Google Chrome in the room next to the modem and router,,,,,My desk top is running windows 10 and google chrome at the other end of the house (upstairs) using a WiFi extender.

My wife gets better data speed than I do but the system is so slow and not reliable enough for her to work from home.

There have been times times I will run the speed test of her lap top (on WiFi) in the middle of the day and it has recorded download speeds in the mid-20's only to drop under 5 a few hours later.

There are only the two of us living here and she is gone all day to work.

Maybe between 8:00 PM est and 10:00 pm est we MAY have a Kindle and a Ipad on the WiFi (playing games or using Facebook) but not at the same time as the laptop and Desk Top are using the WiFi.

We do not have any TV service at this house at all.

Data Usage is something I will have to learn to control as a NEW SATELITTE user. But the data speed is a killer.
GabeU
Distinguished Professor IV

A few things on Windows 10 to check.  First, make sure syncing is turned off, especially if both computers are under the same Microsoft account.  

Click on Windows, then Settings, then Accounts, then click on "Sync Your Settings" on the bottom left.  Turn all of the lower, individual options off, then turn "Sync settings" off.  

Then there is "Updates from more than one place."  

Click on Windows, then Settings, then Updates & security.  Then click on "Advanced Options", which is in the middle of the page.  Then click "Choose how updates are delivered."  Then turn OFF "Updates from more than one place."  

The cloud (OneDrive) is also a bad thing to use with a capped service.  If you haven't set it up, then it's probably not doing anything.  If you have, I would shut it off and close it from ever starting again.  You can do that by right clicking on the cloud icon in your taskbar (it might be hidden under the up arrow).  Click on settings, then choose the settings page.  Uncheck "Start OneDrive automatically when I sign into Windows."  Then click Okay.   Right click on the cloud icon in the taskbar again, then click Exit, then "Close OneDrive" in the box that pops up.  Now, it will never automatically start again.  

If you use Facebook, you should set it so it does not play videos automatically.  You can change that in the settings for Facebook.  

You should also download an ad blocker.  The most often used one is AdBlock Plus.  There are versions for IE, Chrome and Firefox.  It's here.... https://adblockplus.org/.  After installation, make sure that a filter list is enabled (it usually self installs "easylist") and uncheck "allow some non intrusive ads".  You can do both of those things, after it is installed, by clicking on its icon in your broswer and going to options.

One last thing.  A program that a lot of people use for knowing what data their computer is using is called Glasswire.  It can be downloaded here.....   https://www.glasswire.com/.  Glasswire monitors all of the traffic your computer uses, so you can see what is using a lot of data.  It's completely non intrusive and uses very little data on it's own.  It says it's a firewall, but it just uses your Windows Firewall,  so you don't have to mess with the firewall settings.  It has to be installed on each Windows computer as it only monitors the computer it's installed on.  

These are some things that should help you with not only conserving data, but also, with regard to the last thing, seeing just what, on your computer, is using data.  
 
jthill3
New Poster

Thanks for the info but here is what i meant by "Not a computer guy"
I tried to go to settings to look at the Sync entries but its asking me for a Microsoft login.....if I had one, I never knew it......these things are simple for you but they are Greek to me.....I'll keep trying
GabeU
Distinguished Professor IV

Ah.  You are most likely using a local account.  Syncing only works when you use Windows 10 with a Microsoft account, and since you never set one up, syncing isn't even on.  So,  that one can just be ignored.  Try the updates from more than one place.  That you should still be able to adjust.    
jthill3
New Poster

Thanks for your help today. But now I am very tired - being disabled sucks.

I'll have to pick up on this tomorrow.

Thank you so much!
GabeU
Distinguished Professor IV

You're welcome.  And yes, it does suck.  I'm in the same boat, though a bit younger than you. 

BTW, I missed that you had said you use an iPad.  Apple products are one of the most egregious types when it comes to data conservation.  I'm not familiar with an iPad, so I hope there is someone else on here that is and can tell you what you need to do, if anything, to reduce its data usage.   

With the exception of not being able to stream or watch other videos nearly as much, once you get things set to be data conservative you won't really notice much difference between this and a non capped service.  I've got a desktop computer with Windows 10, which is my main computer, a laptop with Windows 10 and a notebook with Windows 8.1.  All are kept up to date, including the non Windows programs, and I shop, use Facebook, watch occasional YouTube videos, pay bills and generally browse and I normally use less than 5GB of data per month, combined.  Right now I'm 22 days through the month and I've used 3.1GB so far.  This isn't to say that yours will be the same, but only to demonstrate what's possible with this service.  And with the exception of not being able to stream films and TV shows (I could conservatively, but I don't), I don't feel deprived of anything.

I hope you get the speed issue resolved. 

jthill3
New Poster

This what I got done - (also iPad is used only to download new games - very minimal use - Kindle use is the same.....

A few things on Windows 10 to check.  First, make sure syncing is turned off, especially if both computers are under the same Microsoft account.  


Click on Windows, then Settings, then Accounts, then click on "Sync Your Settings" on the bottom left.  Turn all of the lower, individual options off, then turn "Sync settings" off.   SKIPPED

Then there is "Updates from more than one place."  

Click on Windows, then Settings, then Updates & security.  Then click on "Advanced Options", which is in the middle of the page.  Then click "Choose how updates are delivered."  Then turn OFF "Updates from more than one place."  BEST I COULD DO WAS “PC ON MY LOCAL NETWORK AND PC FROM INTERNET”

The cloud (OneDrive) is also a bad thing to use with a capped service.  If you haven't set it up, then it's probably not doing anything.  If you have, I would shut it off and close it from ever starting again.  You can do that by right clicking on the cloud icon in your taskbar (it might be hidden under the up arrow).  Click on settings, then choose the settings page.  Uncheck "Start OneDrive automatically when I sign into Windows."  Then click Okay.   Right click on the cloud icon in the taskbar again, then click Exit, then "Close OneDrive" in the box that pops up.  Now, it will never automatically start again.  DON”T KNOW WHAT CLOUD IS – BUT COULD NOT FIND IT ANYWHERE UNDER SETTINGS AS “ONEDRIVE” OR “CLOUD” - EVERYTHING IS SAVED TO MY PC LOCAL

If you use Facebook, you should set it so it does not play videos automatically.  You can change that in the settings for Facebook.  DID THAT A LONG TIME AGO BEFORE HUGHESNET

You should also download an ad blocker.  The most often used one is AdBlock Plus.  There are versions for IE, Chrome and Firefox.  It's here.... https://adblockplus.org/.  After installation, make sure that a filter list is enabled (it usually self installs "easylist") and uncheck "al low some non intrusive ads".  You can do both of those things by clicking on the icon and going to options. DID THAT A LONG TIME AGO BEFORE HUGHESNET

One last thing.  A program that a lot of people use for knowing what data their computer is using is called Glasswire.  It can be downloaded here..... .  Glasswire monitors all of the traffic your computer uses, so you can see what is using a lot of data.  It's completely non intrusive and uses very little data on it's own.  It says it's a firewall, but it just uses your Windows Firewall,  so you don't have to mess with the firewall settings.  It has to be installed on each computer as it only monitors the computer it's installed on.  INSTALLED IT AN HOUR AGO

These are some things that should help you with not only conserving data, but also, with regard to the last thing, seeing just what, on your computer, is using data.   

Gwalk900
Honorary Alumnus

jthills3,

Glasswire is really going to help ID the programs and processes on the Windows machine. It will also need to be installed on the other Windows computer as the program only monitors the usage on the machine it its installed upon.

Here are some suggested settings to exclude local LAN traffic and give you a peek as to what the Glasswire "output" looks like:

(click on pictures for larger image)



Having Glasswire installed on both computers will help in where to put effort into plugging the leaks in the Win10 machines.

I see where you have AdBlock Plus installed and that is good but ..... websites are always in a constant state of change and so must your "defenses". At the least you should have a FlashBlock extension to block flash objects but also Flash Control to stop the "prefetch" of videos that are found all over (msn.com. cnn.com)

The real issue is going to be your Router, extenders and wireless network and devices.

What is the brand and model of your router?

Do you know how to get to and enter the routers internal main page?

Example, mine resides at 192.168.1.1 and looks like this:

 

Access to that page should be protected by a username and password that has been changed from the manufacturers default values.

Can you verify that was done?

After that we need to verify that all of your wireless channels are "encrypted". Some routers only have a single wireless frequency, 2.4 GHZ others have one or more 5.0 GHZ channels available.

It is very important that all wireless channels be scrambled with a wireless encryption standard to prevent every device that comes within range from being able to connect to your network and thereby have free rein to your data .

You will see in the picture above my wireless is encrypted with the WPA2-Personal standard

Can you verify that your wireless channels are encrypted?

That brings us to wireless devices .. iPads in particular.

Several months ago I changed routers. The wife seldom uses her iPad and I did not install the new network passkey in it after getting the new router. One day recently I charged the iPad and entered the wireless network key and let the iPad shut down into hibernation.

The router I got allows it to track usage by date, by device name, by IP address. I want you to see what the wifes iPad does ... cover closed, dark screen, undisturbed:

If you look at the blue graph across the top, you will see that it (the iPad) never really disconnects from the network on its own, not totally. It is always taking a little "sip" plus an occasional spike.

The list in bottom window details where it connect to and how much data it used.

The only way to prevent this is to engage Airplane Mode or a 100% power off condition. Both of those are difficulty to remember to do.

After Win10, the wireless side your network represents the greatest risk to your data allowance.


Check to see if your present router has any traffic management functions.

If it does not I would encourage you to replace your router with one that does.

Mine is an Asus RT-AC3100. There are other less expensive Asus models that have the Traffic Analyzer function.

GabeU
Distinguished Professor IV

BEST I COULD DO WAS “PC ON MY LOCAL NETWORK AND PC FROM INTERNET

It won't let you turn it off?  This is a big problem.  I haven't found why you wouldn't be able to disable this (turn it off), or at least change it to PCs on my local network. 

The option it's currently on allows YOUR computer to be used by computers on the internet to update their files.  This means that your data can be used to updates other peoples' computers.  This is REALLY bad. 

I hope you can find a way to at least change it to PCs on my local network.  At least that way it would only be YOUR computers.  Otherwise your data could be consumed very quickly.   

 

jthill3
New Poster

Found it and was able to change it to PC ON MY LOCAL NETWORK.....
thanks
jthill3
New Poster

Also made Glasswire setting changes suggested - have to look at Modem and Router tomorrow.....been tired all day...sorry
GabeU
Distinguished Professor IV

That's great, and thank goodness!  That could have been a real data chewer.  Hopefully what you've now done, and had already done, will help to save some data, and possibly even a considerable amount. 

Glasswire will monitor the data now and you should be able to look at it within a few days and see if anything is looking like it's a high data user, and whether what is can be changed or just not used. 

Again, I'm not very familiar with Apple products, but I hope that when your iPad is off it is truly off and not downloading updates or connecting to the iCloud.  I have no clue as to whether someone has to set up the iCloud or if it is automatically on from the outset.  Time will tell.  At least with Glasswire being on the computer(s) you will be able to tell, by process of elimination, what is using an excessive amount of data if something does and it's not the computers. 

If you still end up seeing high data usage, most definitely say so, we will try to figure out what's going on. 

 

GabeU
Distinguished Professor IV

I had to look below to see what changes to Glasswire you were referring to.  Those are good ideas. 

Have a good evening and get some rest. 

jthill3
New Poster

Here are my data speeds from today 

I tracked the data speeds today and wanted to report them.
Using two devices a laptop and a desktop - neither connected to the modem   and using only WiFi. The laptop is closest to the modem/router.         Data speeds recorded in Mbps.         Times are EST.        January 27th, 2017        Time     Download   Upload   Server location     Device    8:50am     22.44      4.52      Dallas           laptop                12.10      1.22      Chicago          desktop     10:40am    25.16      1.31      Chicago          laptop             10.39      1.41      Dallas           desktop        1:34pm     25.27      1.31      Chicago          laptop                12.99       .68      Chicago          desktop        6:36pm      9.82       .51      Virginia         laptop                 10.48       .42      Dallas           desktop        9:41pm       .84       .29      Virginia         laptop                 .80       .19      Chicago          desktop   
GabeU
Distinguished Professor IV

To address the speed issues, the reps are going to need some tests, but they need to be done following a certain protocol.  The following is a copy/paste from another post, but it's what needs to be done...

To get started, please follow the steps here to set up a testmy.net account and run speed tests so that we get a proper evaluation of your system performance:
http://customer.kb.hughesnet.com/Pages/7001.aspx

Most important points:
-do the tests while directly connected to the HughesNet modem (no router)
-use the 12MB test file
-space each test at least 5 minutes apart
-post your results URL here, it may look something like  http://testmy.net/quickstats/[yourusername]
 
 You only need to do download tests right now, not upload tests, as they normally go hand in hand, anyway, so use the manual 12MB download test size for the tests.  
 
jthill3
New Poster

GabeU - been out a while but back up on my feet.....before I was interrupted I found out this info on my hardware 

Router - D-link - DIR-619L-ES HW VER - B3 FW VER 2.04

MODEM - HT1100

Those us us that sign up fro Hughesnet for the first time, and who never have heard about the diferences between this service and ATT&T or Xfinity services, are naturally shocked when the reality hits. As we have discussed and Hughenet acknowledged, the sales rep representing Hughesnet was "a little less than honest" about what I would be getting.

I have been "educated" as to the Data Limits with my subscription and now I am only praying to fix the speed issue so my wife can work from home a few days a week.

...and I have asked for help from Hughesnet several times regarding the speed issues and the last they told me (3 or 4 weeks ago) was that this has been escalated to some Techie Group. I have not heard anything since - and I've been down a while so I didn't follow up either. I also sent them several days of Speed Tests as suggested but the formatting was terrible when entered into their system so I am not sure if they even looked at it - but they did not ask me any questons either.

I understand now that with the new Satellite, I should be using difference hardware. Do you have any details?
GabeU
Distinguished Professor IV

All I know is that the new satellite will require a new modem.  I think, but I'm not positive, that those that currently have the HT1000 and HT1100 modems won't need to upgrade their dishes, as the new satellite and modem will utilize the same dish.  Again, though, that part I'm not 100% on, but I'm 99.99% sure it will require the aforementioned new modem.   

Other than that I know about as much as you do.  I don't know anything about what kinds of plans they will offer, nor what their speeds will be.  

Regarding  your speed, was it a rep on the phone who said they were escalating your issue, or someone on here in a private thread?  

I know on the other thread you provided some results, but they weren't done with the protocols they need.  I spelled out those requirements toward the end of the thread if you want to do them and continue trying to resolve the issue on the other thread, or in a new one you create.  If you do create a new one regarding the speed issue, it would be best to include some of those speed tests done in the necessary way.  
 
BTW, I have the exact same router (DIR-619L) and it works well. 
 
GabeU
Distinguished Professor IV

After referencing the old/other thread, I realized THIS IS the old/other thread.  Sorry, I'm getting tired.  It's been a long day.  
jthill3
New Poster

I hooked up our laptop directly to the modem and did speed tests on the http://testmy.net/ and also on the speed test available on the Hughesnet site (when I could get it to come up) - problem was, I do not how to cut and past a portion of the results spreadsheet into a ticket on their system. I just entered it as raw data and I could not read myself. I will have to re-test and re-log the results.

The email tech support agent had replied to me in an email that my issue had been escalated as I mentioned - it was not someone on this board.

Also, when I looked up my router of the Dlink site, the model I have is not listed.
GabeU
Distinguished Professor IV

If you are signed in to testmy.net and do a test now, I can find if and paste what you need to paste.  You only need to paste your results URL, but if you do a quick test and let me know the result so I can find it, I can do it for you.  Just make sure you are signed in to your testmy.net account when you do the test.   

Here's the link to the router.  It's an older router, but it's still a good one....

http://us.dlink.com/products/products/dir-619l-es/