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Install question

New Member

Re: Install question

THAT even Right !!!   Kokercey !!!!!
Moderator

Re: Install question

Hi Kokercey,

Since I am not an expert in this field, I asked for some advice: the installer can test the cable and ensure that if he did not install it, it at least meets Hughes requirements. A note should also be made in your work order that the same coaxial cable was used so that if there is a problem with it in the future, you will not have to pay for it.

I have not checked your order notes, but since we require installation photos of work done, if there is no imaging of the trench work being done by Hughes then our technicians know it was not replaced and the same applies.
We really don't like to rip up a customer's lawn if we don't have to! Smiley Happy

Thanks,
Amanda
Associate Professor

Re: Install question

Can you inform of us of the exact minimum requirements for the coaxial cable that Hughesnet allows in installations?  I know its here somewhere, but I can't find it.
Honorary Alumnus

Re: Install question

Seems like it was quad shield, swept to 3GHZ RG6 with the connectors also rated to pass 3 GHZ.

I THINK there were "approved" manufacturers numbers in the FSB's but those are getting hard to find these days Smiley Happy

I too would like to see some hard specs listed to use as a cross check.


Moderator

Re: Install question

Hi Charles and Gwalk,

I am not exactly sure but from my (basic) knowledge of the systems, I believe they have to be rated for high frequency at 3.0GHz or better with a coordinated connector like the "snap and seals"  or aquatights

Amanda
Associate Professor

Re: Install question

Pretty sure it's Quad shielded and swept to 3Ghz, couldn't remember if CC was allowed on the center conductor or if it has to be pure copper.
Honorary Alumnus

Re: Install question

Pure copper from FSB's over the years.

Hard to see them cutting specs as frequencies rise and trans and rcv  are now multiplexed on the same conductor.


New Member

Re: Install question

Amanda,
Thanks for your reply. The question of replacing the cable never came up. I was down in the shop during the install , but i never even thought to ask if the cable would be replaced i just thought that it would be. I am not at present having any problems but am thinking i should be proactive and replace it on my own
Moderator

Re: Install question

Hi Kokercey,

I am not sure I can recommend doing it yourself - there's some extra things needed like dielectric grease in certain areas, weatherproofing tape, certain amount of torque for tightening the connector, etc. If you aren't too adamant about doing it, we'll replace it for free if something does happen.

Thanks,
Amanda
Associate Professor

Re: Install question

My only words about the torque listed in the books...  Never ever have I seen an installer use a torque wrench to torque the connections to the listed spec, nor the bolts that secure the dish.  They use a wrench till it's just flat out tight, which is a bit... stupid IMO.