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Verify Your Connected Devices (How To Step by Step Guide)

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bare65
Advanced Tutor

Verify Your Connected Devices (How To Step by Step Guide)

To verify what all devices (cell phones, TV's, Hoppers/Joeys, Tablets, Gaming Consoles, etc) may be currently connected to your wifi network via your HT2000w modem you can follow these simple steps.

This is also a good way to verify that your neighbors, and/or house guests are not connecting to your network without your permission.

 

 

To start, you will need to open up your HT2000w System Control Center.

To do so, simply type 192.168.0.1 into your browser and click enter.

 

You will see the following screen...

(I've removed my personal SAN # from all screen shots)

 

Step 1: Click on the i icon

s1.png

 

Doing so will open up your HT2000w Advanced Configuration page.

 

Step 2: Under the Advanced Menu, click on the General + option.

 

s2.png

Step 3: Click on Connect Device Info

 

s3.pngUnder this option you will see a list of ALL devices that are currently connected to your wifi network (within the red circled area), as well as those devices that were previously connected at some point, but are no longer connected.

 

As you can see from my own screen shot, currently, the only thing connected to my HT2000w modem is my desktop computer via ethernet cable. I have had no additional devices connect to my modem since my last reboot.

 

Having multiple devices connected at any one time can really slow down your internet service and use up data that you may be otherwise unaware off, even if that device doesn't appear to be actively downloading content.

It's a good idea to get in the habit of manually disconnecting any devices that are not currently being used to ensure no additional data is being used by that device that your unaware of and if at all possible, disable any 'auto connect' feature your devices may have to prevent your devices from connecting automatically to your network.

 

If you do see any device/s connected to your network that you do not recognize, it would be a good idea to immediatley change your Network Name (SSID) and Password for both the 2.4GHz & 5GHz frequencies.

Doing so will immediatley disconnect all devices, including the ones you do not recognize, from your network until you can determine what it is. You will have to update your own devices with your new Network Name & passwords in order for them to connect again.

 

 

**This tutorial was created for those customers who, like myself, have a BASIC HughesNet set-up using an HT2000w Modem w/ built in wifi ONLY.

If you have connected a 3rd party router between your modem and network, any external devices that you may have connected via this advanced set up will not be visible from your HT2000w Advanced Configurations Page.

14 REPLIES 14
monicakm
Senior

Wonder why this doesn't see the six Google Home devices, two Alexa devices, wifi thermostat and six smart outlets, one smart bulb.  Oops, my cell phone is on wifi right now too.  

This is great, bare65, thank you for taking the time to create this informative post!

If you have a tech or billing question and need help, please start a new thread in the appropriate board. Unsolicited Private Messages may not get replies.

Slow performance? Click me!

C0RR0SIVE
Associate Professor


@monicakmwrote:

Wonder why this doesn't see the six Google Home devices, two Alexa devices, wifi thermostat and six smart outlets, one smart bulb.  Oops, my cell phone is on wifi right now too.  


If you have a third party router between the HT2000w and your network, it will not show your entire network.  The HT2000w only shows what is connected to it, it self.  Your network, is far from the typical network that most consumers have.


For instance, mine shows only ONE connected device, and none in the disconnected devices.  That would be my third party router.
ModemDevices.JPG

 

However, when I look at my router, this is what I see on my network.
ActualNetwork.JPG

You're right Corrosive, I do have a 3rd party router.  I'd just bought my Netgear when I upgraded to Gen 5.  It works better than the integrated wifi so I disbled the HN router.  What is it about my network that is far from the typical network that most consumers have? 😮  And why do you have two routers?

C0RR0SIVE
Associate Professor


@monicakmwrote:

What is it about my network that is far from the typical network that most consumers have?


The average consumer doesn't use their own router when they first sign up for internet service, they typically depend on the ISP supplied Router/Modem combo units like the HT2000w as it's cheaper up front.  If a user needs better range on the wifi, they will typically get extenders and install them, as they are cheaper than buying router that has a range large enough to cover their home.

 


@monicakmwrote:

😮  And why do you have two routers?


I have 3 (notice the name PFs# multiple times?)... Various reasons, can't really discuss, I also have one (the NightHawk) setup just as an access point, it does no routing of traffic.

Geez, you're not so typical  yourself 😉  I have a Netgear R6400 (AC1750) that was supposedly an overkill for wifi in my home but I still ended up needing to buy an extender (my router is on one end of the house).  Made all the difference!  

Corrosive, one more thing...you show a Chromecast.  Are you using a Chromecast on HN?  Are you on like a secret unlimited plan? 😮  A few years ago I found out the hard way that Chromecast (and I understand Roku is the same) feed on your data 24/7 whether you're using it or not.  Even if it's off and the tv is off.  You have to unplug it keep it from using around 15-17MB/hour.  I'd love to be able to integrate it with all the GHs that I have.

C0RR0SIVE
Associate Professor

I actually block my ChromeCast from accessing most of the web-services google uses, I also have the ability to throttle any connection I want to any speed, so if my Chromecast DID need something, it can't consume much more than 3MB an hour.

Really.  Is that all you're going to say about that?  I know you've seen my disheartening posts about the amt of data Chromecast uses.  Might you please share with us how that works?  Are the settings in Chromecast it's self or are there registry hacks or...?  What kind of results do you get?  Does the device stream anything while not being used?  I've got two of the 1st gen Chromecasts.  If I can "fix" this glaring issue of data usage, I'll be more than happy to purchase the newer model if needed.  PLEEEASE help!

BirdDog
Assistant Professor


@monicakmwrote:

Really.  Is that all you're going to say about that?  I know you've seen my disheartening posts about the amt of data Chromecast uses.  Might you please share with us how that works?  Are the settings in Chromecast it's self or are there registry hacks or...?  What kind of results do you get?  Does the device stream anything while not being used?  I've got two of the 1st gen Chromecasts.  If I can "fix" this glaring issue of data usage, I'll be more than happy to purchase the newer model if needed.  PLEEEASE help!


It is the Backdrop changing images that eat a huge amount of background data even when the Chromecast is not being used if powered on. I used both options given here to tame it: https://www.howtogeek.com/337719/how-to-tame-your-chromecasts-background-data-usage/

 

I also made my own 1x1 pixel .bmp images using Paint instead of the author's images, the .bmp ones are even smaller in data size. Now the data use when the Chromecast is on (TV on) is maybe 3-4 MB depending how long the TV is on powering the Chromecast.

Birddog,  yeah, I know it's the backdrops but they must be hideously large files or Google is doing something else other than downloading backdrops (surprise!).  I also read about making and using your own image but that didn't stop the downloading of backgrounds.

Your link just took me to a reply I made in this conversation 😮  

So you find you can simply turn the tv off and it disables the Chromecast?  A HN tech support agent showed me that my system was using 17MB/hour in the middle of the night when everything was off (including the tv).  Just having the tv off didn't stop it.  I had to unplug the USB cable from the CC, killing any connection to it.  Since my tv is on the wall, over the office desk (Bedroom tv is even higher), it was way too much trouble to unplug it when not in use AND the 17MB/hour it was using on top of casting.  Since I'm now scheduling my videos during Bonus hours, I could afford the 3-4MB/hour.

 

BirdDog
Assistant Professor

Your TV must not turn off the USB port when the TV is off. No way it can use data without power.
My experience doing the steps in the link I gave is it now uses about 1 MB an hour when powered on. A lot less than out of the box.
GabeU
Distinguished Professor IV

BirdDog,

The link you provided creates a reply. I think you meant to post something different. 😋

Ryzen 5 3400G | MSI B450M Pro-M2 MAX | 16GB Corsair Vengeance DDR4 3000 | XPG SX8200 Pro 512GB NVMe | Windows 10 Pro
BirdDog
Assistant Professor


@GabeUwrote:
BirdDog,

The link you provided creates a reply. I think you meant to post something different. 😋

Oops, so I did, thanks Gabe. I corrected it there and here it is again: https://www.howtogeek.com/337719/how-to-tame-your-chromecasts-background-data-usage/

 

Guess I need to brush up on my copy/paste technique. Smiley Tongue

 

Perhaps @monicakm will want to look at the correct link, sorry about that.

Thank you @Liz

I've since edited my original tutorial to clarify that this tutorial only applies to those customers who, like myself, are using a basic set-up Smiley Happy