The HughesNet reps on this site will be back on Monday, and to address your speed issues, they require that you follow a specific troubleshooting procedure, which is detailed here: https://community.hughesnet.com/t5/Tech-Support/Think-you-have-slow-speeds/m-p/110034#M74607
Best way is to have 3 tests run 3 times a day (3 in the morning, 3 in the afternoon, 3 in the evening). Tests need to spaced out a bit, and they need to be specific file sizes. Everything is explained in the link I posted above.
Do you still have data? Speeds will tank when you run out.
Good luck; I hope the issue gets resolved soon for you.
That's pretty bad speed, definitely. When you experience these slow speeds, what's the state code? (the state code can be found here: http://192.168.0.1/#!/home/status).
Also, what's your browsing experience when you measure those speeds? Was slow browsing what led you to run speed tests?
If you're on the modem's home page, click on System Status. When you get to the system status page, look for the number next to State Code (located in the System Summary box). The code that indicates everything's working as it should is 0.0.0.
Cool! What that means is that your system seems to be operating normally, so the slow speed may be caused by something else. The HN reps here will be back Monday, and they can run remote diagnostics to see if they see anything amiss. Getting speed readings at different times of the day could show whether the slow speed has to do with congestion or traffic.
On thehome page following that link I see only diagnostic code? 0s then 0005
The diagnostic code gives an abbreviated way of showing status for the last 3 hours -- it can be seen decoded visually on the following screen:
It works like this:
The first 5 digits are a numeric code representing the most recent past hour. The next 5 digits are for one hour back, and the next 5 digits after that are for two hours back. The final digit is some kind of a checksum.
To decode these, reposition the dashes in the code like this:
0000-0000-0000-0005 -> 00000-00000-00000-5
Each group of five digits is the status for 1 hour with the following number values matching up with the display in the above screen:
32 TCP Acceleration
1024 Web Acceleration [N]
2048 DNS Acceleration [N]
4096 DNS Acceleration [I]
I don't know what the values for LAN and Inroute Protection are -- I don't remember seeing them, but maybe 8192, and 16384. There may be more code values not shown in the display as 1, 8, 64, and 256 are obviously missing and may represent something. If anyone knows, please let me know!
For example 3 hours of FAP without anything else would have a code like this: 00512-00512-00512 (shown as 0051-2005-1200-512x, where x is some digit for the checksum)
A value of 00000-00000-00020 (shown as 0000-0000-0000-020x) means that Uplink+Association in the last hour with the two hours before being good as 4=Uplink + 16=Association gives 20 for both Uplink and Association.
If you see the diagnostic code was 0000-0000-0000-0005 then your last 3 hours would show in the display like mine above.
Unfortunately, WiFi can give really bad performance if another WiFi hotspot is in range using an over-lapping channel. I experimented setting up two WiFi in range of each other purposely setting over lapping channels and the result is sub 800 Kbps at best!
Also certain devices don't seem to play by the WiFi rules nicely - my niece had a certain older phone that would cause all other devices to drop off/rejoin anytime it joined the WiFi. If she then let it sit for a while, all devices would again drop off and rejoin after so many minutes and the process would repeat the moment she touched it making it squak something over the WiFi. When the devices dropped/rejoined, some would have trouble getting back on making a huge pain. I have only seen two devices like this, but I think both may have been made in 2008 or 2009 and they made using WiFi a nightmare when they were turned on.
Your mentioning of the low speed reminded me of that over lapping channel thing or interference, but don't discount there being a rogue device -- the only way I could find them was to be sure that all devices were powered off -- not just screen dark but actually powered off, and testing each device with one other device on to find the trouble maker. This is a huge pain since there were a ton of devices here using WiFi.
Many of the folks here requests tests using wired connection to side step the complex trouble shooting of WiFi problems.